Portugal's Wine Renaissance: A Modern Palate's Delight

Never before has Portugal been so popular, and that inevitably includes its booming wine sector. Countless new brands are appearing on wine shop shelves along with revived iconic labels thanks to new and growing investors. The wines of Portugal have entered, or reentered, public consciousness in a stately manner.

WineStone: A New Player in the Portuguese Wine Scene

Less than a year ago, a new player made its debut on the Portuguese wine scene, a new holding on a mission to become one of the country’s top wine groups. WineStone, whose portfolio already includes iconic wineries in the Douro, Vinho Verde, Lisbon, and Alentejo regions, was created by the José de Mello Group, a corporate giant that, among others, comprises CUF, Brisa, and Ravasqueira. The latter, an Alentejo wine estate, grew more than 25% in the last six years, a swift increase that clearly indicated the wine sector’s potential for development within the José de Mello Group.

Building a Legacy: WineStone's Ambitious Plans

With a focus on both tradition and progress, WineStone is strategically selecting wineries with a strong historical background, renowned brands, and room for expansion as part of its goal to rank among the top three industry players and achieve over 60% export volume by 2030. Part of this ambitious plan was put into motion a little over two years ago when the new holding’s Executive President, Pedro Pereira Gonçalves, invited David Baverstock to join the Ravasqueira team in Arraiolos. For the Australian winemaker, this was an exciting opportunity to start a new chapter.

A Mastermind at the Helm

Born in the Barossa Valley, the famous Australian wine region, David came to Portugal in 1982. Since then, he has worked with some of the most reputed wine producers, such as the Symington Group, Quinta do Crasto, and Esporão, where he was head of oenology for 30 years. Celebrated as the pioneer of modern winemaking in Portugal, David is the only non-Portuguese national to win Winemaker of the Year – not once, but twice – in 2013 and 2015. In January 2022, just two weeks after leaving Esporão, David joined Ravasqueira and, thanks to the priceless experience and knowledge he brings to the table, less than two years later was appointed Chairman Winemaker of the WineStone group. “It has all really fallen into place now,” says David, for whom working with a young team of passionate winemakers is like “being back at Esporão 20 years ago. It’s thrilling”.

A Journey Through WineStone's Wineries

Acquired by the Mello family in 1943 as a country home, Ravasqueira is essentially where the WineStone project was born. This is where José Manuel de Mello planted 45 hectares of vineyards in 1998, and since then, the company has expanded to produce 10 million bottles annually. David explains that Ravasqueira has its own microclimate, enabling the winemaking team to produce “more elegant, fresher, more acidic wines. More gastronomic, with some bottle longevity for whites and reds”. Here, the star products are the Vinha das Romãs red 2021 (€20.90), a velvety blend of Touriga Franca and Syrah, and the recently rebranded Heritage red 2020 (€50), a multi-layered blend of Syrah, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Alicante Bouschet and Petit Verdot.

Expanding Horizons

Along with its launch last October, WineStone announced the first wineries it acquired to build its unique portfolio: Quinta do Retiro Novo, Krohn, Quinta do Côtto, and Quinta do Paço de Teixeiró. Krohn, a centuries-old Port wine brand, founded in 1865 by two Norwegians, Theodor Wiese and Dankert Krohn, and Quinta do Retiro Novo in the Douro’s Rio Torto valley, celebrated WineStone’s entry into the Port wine arena. This is a particularly special project for David, who worked in the Douro for many years. “Going back after all these years is amazing,” he concedes. His previous experience and knowledge of the region are an incredible asset, with which they will build up the Krohn brand as a premium port producer.

A Douro Legacy Reborn

The port brand’s highlight is the Krohn Vintage 2017 (€71), considered “Best in Show” at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2024, a classification given to the 50 best wines in the competition. But there will also be room for novelty in the Douro, as WineStone also has “a serious table wine project” in the pipeline for Quinta do Retiro Novo.

Exploring New Terroirs

Downriver, we find Quinta do Côtto. “It’s something new for me,” David admits candidly. “Côtto has its particular style. It’s based in the Corgo. Wines here are fresher and more acidic. We have to maintain that, but maybe give them a bit more mouthfeel without changing the style and profile of the wines,” he reflects. A beautiful expression of the Baixo Corgo, the Quinta do Côtto Grande Escolha 2020 (€66) is the wine that stands out at this estate.

Vinho Verde's Freshness

On the border with the Douro region, in the Vinho Verde territory, in Baião, Quinta do Paço de Teixeiró adds freshness and minerality to the portfolio. This is where we find the most exquisite expressions of the Avesso grape variety, along with Alvarinho and Loureiro, planted on schist soils, unlike most Vinho Verde producers. Even during the summer, this steep valley generates tremendous thermal amplitudes. It is the perfect terroir to produce great white wines, such as the Paço de Teixeiró Avesso 2021 (€13).

Lisbon's Cabernet Sauvignon

The holding’s latest acquisition, which saw it enter yet another new region a few months back, is Lisbon’s famous Quinta de Pancas. This is very much a “red wine producing Quinta”, points out David, although it is also known for its Chardonnay. Founded in 1495 and recognised for producing superior quality wines made with French grape varieties, Quinta de Pancas enjoys a privileged location between hills, valleys and plains, under the influence of the Serra de Montejunto and the marshes on the right bank of the Tagus River. Here, David and his team will “focus on the Cabernet Sauvignon as the Premium red”. Its current Cabernet Sauvignon Special Selection (€26) is a deep ruby red with polished tannins and a long, strong, spicy finish.

A Future Filled with Promise

Like other brands in the portfolio, Quinta de Pancas has tradition, history, and market recognition. Who knows which region and iconic winery will be the next to join the WineStone portfolio? The future of Portuguese wine looks bright, with new players like WineStone pushing boundaries and bringing a fresh perspective to a rich and diverse landscape of flavors.

The diversity of its wine styles and its wealth of native grape varieties, which are impressive despite the small size of the country, is a testament to the enduring spirit of Portuguese winemaking.

From Mateus to Modern Masterpieces

Portugal’s wine journey has come full circle. From the sweet allure of Mateus to the modern, delicious, and affordable options available today, Portuguese wines are captivating the modern palate. It’s not just about provenance, it’s about the commitment to quality, innovation, and the pursuit of excellence that drives the industry forward. The Portuguese wine scene is a testament to the transformative power of tradition, innovation, and the unwavering passion for crafting wines that stand the test of time. This is a story that continues to unfold, promising a future where Portuguese wines are not merely enjoyed, but cherished as a true reflection of the country’s vibrant culture and rich heritage.