As usual, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons have exquisite timing. Just days after Meta (rather belatedly and in the face of growing pressure) announced new settings and features for the Instagram accounts of teen users, the designers are raising their own skeptical eyebrows about the pervasiveness of “the algorithm.”
Backstage, Prada astutely observed, “basically it seems that we are directed by algorithms, so anything we like and anything we know is because other people are instilling it into us.” She made it clear that she wasn’t condemning or even critiquing the situation. As the creative leaders of a global brand, she and Simons can’t simply abstain—the appearance of South Korean boy band Enhypen and the throngs of fans waiting outside for them were “blowing up our phones,” as the kids like to say. But gauging by the looks that came down the runway, I’d argue that Prada and Simons have some reservations about Filterworld, as the writer Kyle Chayka has described the flattening effect of these platforms in a book of that name.
This was the most bonkers Prada show in some time, one with a superhero-from-outer-space streak, thanks to the goggle hats and porthole skirts, with additional touches of BDSM and cowboy Americana in the form of skirts suspended from harnesses and another trimmed with long white leather fringe. Meanwhile, it was built on a foundation of sportswear—sportswear that could almost be called straightforward save for the integrated wire that gave shirt collars and hems their askew angles and the trompe l’oeil belts implanted in trousers a couple of inches below the waist. Every shoe was different, and nearly all of them appeared to be revivals of popular styles from past collections.
That archival element aside, there was no throughline, and that was entirely the point, even if it was discombobulating to the audience (as I overheard afterward) as well as to Prada herself. “I was very, very nervous for this show, much more than usual,” Prada said. “It was a different approach; instead of having three or four themes for the season, we were trying to do the whole in our way.”
The best designers are the ones who not only respond to and mirror their times, but provide us with some sort of projection, a future vision for how fashion—and the greater culture—could be. Prada and Simons seem to be arguing for a world with more “main character energy,” to use another internet-y turn of phrase, and more individual style. With fashion succumbing to quiet luxury blandness and online samey-ness irrelevance, theirs is a persuasive point of view. Why not pair a silver sequin dress with a yellow windbreaker and a UFO-shaped straw visor? What’s stopping any of us? Or what about a pinup star’s leather swimsuit with a folk singer’s brown suede coat? A T-shirt with a ball skirt? Miuccia and Raf have given fashion oddballs oodles of ideas to riff on with this collection. “We do our human proposition,” Prada said.
A Celebration of Individuality
The Spring 2025 collection showcased a wide range of looks that defied categorization, reflecting a diverse and unique approach to fashion. Each outfit felt like a unique expression of self, breaking free from the constraints of trends and algorithm-driven aesthetics. This was not about following a singular theme, but rather embracing the freedom to mix and match, to wear what feels good and express one's own personal style.
A Blend of Past and Future
Prada's use of archival pieces in this collection was a powerful statement against the homogenization of fashion. By drawing inspiration from past collections, they challenged the idea that fashion should be constantly chasing the latest trends, instead suggesting a more timeless and individual approach to dressing. The incorporation of futuristic elements, such as goggle hats and porthole skirts, added a sense of playfulness and a hint of rebellion against the status quo.
A Vision for the Future
Prada and Simons' Spring 2025 collection offers a glimpse into a future where fashion is less about conformity and more about self-expression. It is a world where individuals feel empowered to create their own unique style, blending different influences and pushing boundaries. It is a vision of fashion that embraces creativity, individuality, and the power of personal style. This is a call to embrace the “superhero within,” to break free from the constraints of the algorithm and to reclaim the joy of self-expression through fashion.
