Unforeseen Lourdes Sunshine: A November Pilgrimage Surprise!
My 15th or 16th ‘winter’ trip to Lourdes began with a 6 am flight from Cork to Stansted, followed by a connecting flight to Lourdes. The journey itself was an adventure; I overheard fellow passengers debating the financial implications of Brexit, a stark reminder of global complexities even amidst personal pilgrimage. This year's journey was smoother than many previous ones. For nearly a decade, I had to stay overnight at Stansted airport to catch an early flight to Tarbes airport, but this year's early morning flight from Cork to London connected flawlessly with my flight to France, arriving ten minutes early.
Unexpected Weather in Lourdes
I had booked my flights about a month ago, and last week, the forecast predicted dreadful weather in Lourdes. I anticipated rain and booked a room in the San Saveur Hotel near the Grotto, assuming I'd be close to shelter. However, Tuesday brought a glorious 18°C – so warm, that without my woolen Bride Rovers beanie cap, I would have suffered a sunburn! By the Grotto, in the shade, it was cooler, but across the river, the sunshine was glorious. Never did I imagine I’d need a cap to keep off the sun in November – then miracles do happen here!
Reflections at the Grotto
As dusk settled, I greeted the Crowned Virgin Statue, a moment of emotional release. It's a familiar experience; I’m never embarrassed to cry here, it feels like coming home. Following a silver trail, reminiscent of a “silver tear” from Jimmy McCarthy’s song ‘Neidin’, I reached Massabiele, the Grotto – the heart of Lourdes. A simple tile marks where Bernadette knelt when she first saw the apparition. I knelt there, too, lighting a candle for those who asked me to remember them in prayer.
The Power of Remembrance
The Grotto’s power resonates deeply. Many people come here to remember loved ones, to be remembered in prayer. As I walked, I thought of Sister Sinead O’Connor’s poignant words, “O master grant that I may never seek, to be understood as to understand...” This sentiment perfectly encapsulates the spirit of Lourdes: remembering others, understanding their pain, and seeking solace.
Exploring Lourdes Beyond the Grotto
Taking a bus, I explored unfamiliar parts of Lourdes, venturing beyond the Cité de St Pierre – the City of the Poor – into the commercial center. I bought postcards but discovered that shops no longer sell stamps, necessitating a trip to the post office. A chesty cough led me to a chemist for cough medicine and paracetamol. Even simple errands contribute to the overall experience. Later, at the English Mass, I found comfort in familiar liturgy and the peace only Lourdes can provide.
The Everyday Miracles of Lourdes
My usual life in Ireland is filled with cows, meetings, concerts, writing, and book launches. In contrast, Lourdes offers a tranquil escape, a space for uncluttered thoughts and drifting songs. The simplicity of life here—the mundane chores mixed with moments of profound spiritual connection—is what truly defines the essence of a Lourdes pilgrimage. I walked past where Sister Sinead O’Connor lived and reflected on her life and work. I attended evening Mass at St. John Vianney Chapel, where I met a Dublin lady who led the singing. The simple act of attending Mass and connecting with others creates a sense of community and shared experience.
A Visit to the Baths and Beyond
I visited the Baths, though the limited opening hours (10am-11:30am) meant I couldn't fully participate. I witnessed the queue of several hundred awaiting the water gesture. Since Covid, total immersion is no longer permitted; the ritual now involves washing hands and faces with Grotto spring water, drinking some, and praying silently. It's an intensely emotional experience. Afterwards, I sat across from the Grotto, remembering those we've remembered and prayed for on past June evenings, reflecting on thousands of crisp leaves swirling in the warm November breeze, a poignant reminder of the changing seasons and cycles of life and death.
A Final Reflection: Remembering Sister Therese
Later, I had lunch at the Little Flower restaurant, where the long-serving Michel is soon to retire. I met Sister Fatima, the 'doorkeeper' at the Poor Clares, before attending the 5pm evening Mass in French. It is always a peaceful and special service. As I left the chapel, darkness had fallen. The memories of Lourdes are many. I often laughed with Mallow-born Sr Marie Therese O’Connell, who passed away. I plan to visit her grave in the little community cemetery this week. I’ve travelled far by land and by sea, seen beautiful places, but there’s one little town I’ll never forget, Lourdes, the village of St Bernadette. The unexpected warmth, the simple acts of faith, the quiet moments of reflection – these are the miracles of Lourdes, reminding us of the enduring power of remembrance and the simple joy of unexpected sunshine in November.
I hope to offer up my climb of 146 steps to my fourth-floor hotel room as a small sacrifice.
My taxi driver, incidentally, plays rugby with David Brua! I know David’s parents well, as they own the Agena Hotel where I stay in June.
It's a grand experience. I’m thankful for the smooth flight and the chance to reconnect with my faith and the many people who loved and prayed at this beautiful place.
