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Vancouver's Michelin Guide Unveils New Starred Restaurants: Sushi Masuda Shines Bright

4 October, 2024 - 4:09PM
Vancouver's Michelin Guide Unveils New Starred Restaurants: Sushi Masuda Shines Bright
Credit: eatnorth.com

It's been two years since the Michelin Guide (and its coveted stars) first arrived in Vancouver, which means once again the prestigious publication has refreshed its picks for the city's best restaurants for the year ahead.

The 2024 Michelin Guide designations were bestowed upon Vancouver restaurants Thursday night (Oct. 3) during an invitation-only awards ceremony at the Commodore Ballroom.

This year, there was a bit more movement in the overall list, as, in addition to losing the restaurants that have closed permanently, like Regal Mansion, Elephant, Hanai, and Nightshade, two more restaurants dropped off from the rankings: Fiorino (Bib Gourmand '22, '23); Arike (Recommended '22, '23). 

And while we know both Chupito (Bib Gourmand) and Cioppino's (Recommended) will be closed soon, both remain on the list. So far, we only know that Chupito is pursuing a new location. 

There were four additions in each of the Guide's three categories: One star, Bib Gourmand (value-driven), and Recommended. 

Earning a star in its debut year is Sushi Masuda, a small omakase operation on West Hastings Street that opened only in March of this year.

"The plain, spare room is brought to life by the artfully simple, meticulous preparations of Chef Yoji Masuda, whose time spent in a top counter in Tokyo is amply apparent, though his own personality comes through," describes the Michelin Guide. "With the assistance of his wife Akari, who provides a warm, attentive hospitality, the meal proceeds gracefully, from an indulgent savoury "pudding" of sweet, pure-tasting monkfish liver to a wonderfully gelatinous beltfish cooked with sake and kombu, before arriving at the impeccable nigiri, which showcase exceptional ingredients alongside a singular delicacy and precision."

Joining the Recommended list are Bravo, the seafood-centric Fraser Street spot that was named Best New Restaurant of 2023 by Vancouver Magazine, and Zab Bite, a buzzy northeastern Thai spot (that's right across the street from Bravo, no less).

New to the Bib Gourmand list for Vancouver, which indicates "good food at [a] moderate price," is South Granville's charming Gary's, an intimate European-style bistro with a seasonal menu. 

"To match the relaxed, friendly vibe, the cuisine is rustic and approachable, offering hearty dishes that draw inspiration from French country cooking, as in asparagus with saffron rouille, or pork collar with parsley sauce—and don't miss out on the fluffy, freshly baked rye rolls, served with green garlic butter," notes the Guide.

All told, with additions and losses, there are 76 Michelin Guide-recognized restaurants in Vancouver for 2024.

The Young Chef Award was given out in Vancouver for a second year, going to Masuda of the newly-starred Sushi Masuda; last year's inaugural winner was Warren Chow of Wildlight Kitchen & Bar.

Additionally, three other special categories of awards were handed out, with honours for Exceptional Cocktails going to Fraser Crawford of Kissa Tanto; Sommelier Reverie Beall of AnnaLena; and Outstanding Service for Bailey Hayward of Gary's.

Notably, Vancouver - with its ambitions to be the "greenest city" - continues to have earned zero "Green" stars for sustainable practices.

The Michelin restaurant guidebooks have been around for over a century and the starred ratings since 1926. While over the years the public and industry's sentiments towards the value - perceived or actual - of the ratings have gone through several cycles of favour, it's only recently that Michelin has set its eyes on Canada, having initially ventured to Toronto as its first foray into the country, followed by Vancouver and, more recently, Quebec. 

The Vancouver restaurant selection follows Michelin’s historical methodology, based on five universal criteria, to ensure each destination’s selection equity: 1) quality products; 2) the harmony of flavours; 3) the mastery of cooking techniques; 4) the personality of the chef in the cuisine; 5) consistency between each visit (each restaurant is inspected several times a year).

Along with its stars, Michelin awards the "Bib Gourmand" nod. "Not quite a star, but most definitely not a consolation prize, the Bib Gourmand - named after Bibendum, the friendly Michelin Man and the official company mascot for the Michelin Group - is a just-as-esteemed rating that recognizes friendly establishments that serve good food at moderate prices," explains the publication. 

An additional sub-category for "Recommended" restaurants features an array of notable local eateries, from upscale to more laid-back.

One Star Restaurants 

Recommended Restaurants

Bib Gourmand Restaurants

Exceptional Cocktails: Fraser Crawford, Kissa Tanto

Sommelier: Reverie Beall, AnnaLena

Outstanding Service: Bailey Hayward, Gary's

Young Chef Award: Yoji Masuda, Sushi Masuda

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Michelin Guide Vancouver Sushi
Hans Müller
Hans Müller

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