Once upon a time, our morning beauty routines consisted of a few simple steps: a slathering of skincare, a dusting of make-up, and some zhuzhing of hair. Now, things are a little different, according to TikTok at least. There, you'll find copious iterations of the 'morning shed,' a trend that sees countless beauty buffs removing (or shedding, hence the name) the remnants of their extensive bedtime routines – from sheet masks and pimple patches to face tape, jaw straps and heatless curlers – all in the name of looking their best come morning. The trend has received lots of attention, the likes of Millie Mackintosh are the latest to jump on the trend to prove its sway.

In a new Instagram Reel showcasing her morning routine, Mackintosh said: 'When I saw the morning shed trend, I knew I had to give it a try. This is just the level of ✨ extra ✨ I’m willing to do to get that beauty sleep 💤 One step too far? What do you think? 🤣🧖🏼‍♀️✨🫧💁🏼‍♀️.'

The reality TV star turned internet personality is seen 'shedding' a silk eye mask, the 111Skin Rose Gold Brightening Facial Treatment Mask, £20, a lip mask and a silk bonnet. Her take on the morning shed is arguably far more pared back than the likes of those on TikTok, which boast numerous layers and steps. But is it worth all the faff and why has it come under fire? We spoke to the experts to find out.

Dr Raj Arora, NHS GP doctor, medical educator, and skin expert

Dr Aamna Adel, Consultant Dermatologist

With a cool 99.5M posts on TikTok, the morning shed sees mummified-looking TikTokers rise from the depths of a deep slumber (the shed is to thank for that, more on this later) to remove excess beauty accoutrements left over from their diligent nighttime routine. While each differs, the morning shed encompasses the entirety of a beauty routine from skin to hair and body (the latter has even given rise to people wrapping their stomachs in castor oil packs to reduce bloating and inflammation), in aid of taking self-care and wellness to the next level.

While no two morning shed routines look the same – much like any other beauty routine each depends on personal preference and concern – they all seem to be driven by a common goal: 'go to bed ugly, to wake up pretty.'

In TikTok speak, fans of the morning shed post videos that stem from the not scientifically proven idea that 'the uglier you go to bed, the prettier you wake up.' In fact, many of the videos begin with those exact words sprawled across the screen, including Mackintosh's. Which begs the question, should we really be chasing the notion of physical perfection even in our sleep? And, is it necessary to wake up looking good? It all sounds very The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel, but without the shrouded secrecy that came with Midge Maisel’s bedtime routine plus a heck load more effort.

That said, many have claimed the morning shed helps to shave off time spent getting ready in the morning, thanks to much of the heavy lifting being done the night before and during bedtime. Others have attributed it to having sleep hygiene benefits, thanks to the use of silk padded eye masks and mouth tape which are said to aid a restful night's sleep.

How beneficial the morning shed is has been hotly contended among experts. There is an obvious self-care benefit to the trend, with a focus on skin and sleep which boasts mass appeal for those seeking optimal wellness and a feel-good factor in their routine, Dr RajArora explains.

Likewise, Dr Aamna Adel says there are some skin advantages to the trend. 'Transepidermal water loss is greater overnight so by applying an occlusive sheet mask you’re reducing water loss which means waking up with more hydrated skin. Using an overnight mask can have benefits if you have very dry skin or a damaged skin barrier, especially before a big event or if you want to give your skin a pick-me-up.'

Both experts agree, the same can be said for hair. Overnight heatless curlers and silk bonnets help to style hair sans heat damage, protect against breakage and maintain styles, meaning less work in the morning.

Some steps are essential; 'using your nighttime peptide, anti-ageing or retinol serums and hydrating creams overnight, as directed by your medical professional, will certainly give you positive gains,' says Dr Arora. But, she adds that good skin is really down to to having a basic skincare routine, letting it sit overnight and getting ready in the morning with an equally easy regime. 'You don't need tons of layers and masks which then need 'shedding' come morning.'

It's a fine line between doing good and over doing it. 'Generally nighttime is when skin is repairing and there is increased cell turnover, so having a good nighttime skincare routine is worth having. But bear in mind that occlusive products like overnight sheet masks, neck straps and face tapes are not going to be suitable for everyone, those with acne prone skin might find it leads to breakouts - in the same way slugging does,' says Dr Adel.

The traditional view of a nighttime skincare routine is that it should help to feeding your skin the right ingredients at a time when it is naturally rejuvenating, repairing, and receptive to ingredients. 'I'm not sure how putting a face mask or under eye mask on all night is going to help as your skincare ingredients will be absorbed into your skin once applied and the mask sitting on top is not going to do very much, in fact you may end up getting sweaty overnight with a mask on which can cause more occlusion, breakouts, irritation or redness.'

The jury's out on the usefulness of the morning shed, but one thing the experts can confirm is the power of a sheet mask. The best way to use? Any point before you actuall get into bed. Our vote is to moisturise while you read a good book. Just, please, shed it before you sleep.

111 Skin Rose Gold Brightening Facial Treatment Mask

111skin.com

Meet the not-to-secret secret A-list favourite. Everyone from Jennifer Anniston to Millie Mackintosh has been caught using one of 111 Skin's brilliant mask offerings whether ahead of a red carpet event or, like Mackintosh, in the morning. The Rose Gold Brightening Facial Treatment Mask includes clinical grade ingredients like rose damask, peptides and colloidal gold to soothe, plump and brighten with a ridiculously good glow.

111skin.com

Sameeha Shaikh is Grazia's beauty writer, working across all categories to bring you insights on the latest trends, industry news and the products you need to know about, viral or not (most probably viral).

Main image: Instagram @milliemackintosh

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