Norway's Fjords: A Paradise Under Threat From Tourism Boom
In Norway, nature is something of a national obsession. Norwegian children are taught that “there is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing”, and Norwegian babies are packed into thermals and overalls and taken on day trips to the woods. Cross-country skiing, hunting for wild mushrooms or cloudberries, or huffing and puffing up a mountain are standard weekend activities.
The recent decision to scrap a campaign that aimed to attract more foreign tourists to the country’s rural landscapes was a stark reminder of this: rather than encouraging tourists and the income they provide, many Norwegians would prefer to protect their natural environment.
Norway has some extremely beautiful landscapes, such as Lofoten, a stunning chain of islands that offers northern lights during the winter months and midnight sun during summer, and the countless breathtaking fjords. It is therefore no surprise that tourist numbers have surged in the last few years.
Lofoten, for instance, has seen a 15% increase in tourism from 2022 to 2023. And this summer has seen a record number of vehicles on the road in the area, as many Europeans drive to Norway. Another contributing factor to the explosion in tourism is the newly started direct flights from cities in western Europe like London and Amsterdam to “the Paris of the north”: nearby Tromsø. Visiting Norway from the US and European countries has also become cheaper than it used to be as the currency rate has dropped. Norway has enough cool, rainy days to satisfy those who are growing sick of heatwaves, and enough remote and sparsely populated landscapes to escape the crowds in other parts of Europe. While other destinations have imposed measures on tourists once they arrive – such as Venice’s €5 “tourist tax” – Norway is highly unlikely to do any such thing. The Norwegian approach is to deter them from coming by slashing funding for tourism adverts, as the Western Norway tourist board has done, and quietly shelving campaigns.
The Challenges of Sustainable Tourism
Nature and outdoor activities are needed to get our minds off the cold, harsh and unforgivingly dark winters, which last about six months a year, with just five to six hours of daylight in the south and polar nights in the north, meaning the sun doesn’t rise above the horizon for months. Slaloming down snowy slopes or skiing cross-country through the woods is far preferable to becoming a prisoner in one’s own home. But that will get harder with tourism. You only need to look at the Alps to see how tourism can cause overcrowded villages, traffic jams and worn-down hiking trails and skiing slopes.
There’s an increasing fear that Norway’s natural landscapes might become overcrowded or misused, especially because large parts of the country are free to roam, thanks to centuries-old traditions and laws called allemannsretten (literally: “everyone has ownership”). What these mean is that anyone has the right to roam free in the wilderness, and set up camp, even if the land has an owner. As long as camp is set 150 metres from houses and cabins and for a maximum of two days, you can usually pitch your tent wherever you like.
There is another unique tradition administered by the Norwegian Tourist Organisation, which gives its members access to hundreds of small cabins almost for free (about £20 a night). These are simple wood cabins placed in remote, picturesque areas, mostly with outdoor toilets, no heating and no water. They are well taken care of and loved, as the visitors have to “leave it as you found it” – meaning you keep it clean and fix it if you break it. Foreigners are allowed to apply for membership, allowing them to access these cabins, but the organisation tells me it has made a conscious decision not to advertise this fact internationally.
Norway’s pain threshold for tourists is low – lower than it might be in other countries where tourism is a vital source of national income. Partly, that’s because Norway can afford to miss out on potential tourism income as it has the world’s largest sovereign wealth fund. One could also point out the irony of Norway being the world’s fifth largest oil exporter, and a prime contributor to global heating, while it obsesses about protecting its woods and mountains. In this sense, the recent scrapping of this campaign points to something deeper: Norway and Norwegians struggle with the dilemma of retaining their privileges, which flow largely from fossil fuels, while scrambling to save nature.
You may think the strong sentiments to preserve Norwegian nature and heritage may have some undercurrents of racism and nationalism, but I would argue that it is not about where the tourists are from, but whether they respect nature and the local traditions.
The Love for the Outdoors Runs Deep
The love for the outdoors is almost as a religion to many Norwegians. So much so that even trying to adapt to the climate crisis cannot interfere with nature. The Norwegian authorities have for years been trying to put up onshore wind power plants across the country in an effort to produce more green energy, for instance. But these plans have faced resistance from locals, who object to the damage these structures do to the natural environment.
In the long term, saying no to tourists may become more difficult. Norway has been struggling with high inflation, high interest rates, and tanking currency rates. Economic disparity and social injustice have seeped into one of the world’s most successful welfare states, affecting those less fortunate, the sick and the poor. One in 10 Norwegian children are growing up in poverty, many of whom belong to immigrant families. Arguably, a booming tourism industry could be a means of diversifying away from fossil fuels, and securing a much-needed source of income.
However, there is still time to put in place measures that welcome the tourists, and at the same time safeguard our natural environment. Visitors need clearer signs, guidelines and guides telling them how to protect themselves and nature. There needs to be proper infrastructure put in place that doesn’t strain our wilderness, and there needs to be stricter regulations – such as the one in the west-coast city of Bergen, where a maximum of 8,000 cruise ship tourists are allowed to step ashore daily.
To put a ticket on visits to places such as the spectacular Pulpit Rock might not be the Norwegian way, but to try to regulate the number of tourists to the country is.
Norway's Efforts to Protect Its Fjords
Norway’s fjords have taken a bruising from excessive cruising, prompting the government to take action by prohibiting fuel-powered ships. We explore its impact on the country’s environment and local communities.
Nestled on the stunning Scandinavian Peninsula, Norway stands out as one of the world’s most prosperous nations, thanks to its vast wealth of resources – most notably its abundant offshore oil reserves. Alongside economic stability, the country is also renowned for its firm environmental commitments.
Celebrated for its mesmerising Aurora Borealis, long polar nights, and captivating tales of trolls, Norway possesses a landscape that can only be described as nature’s masterpiece, featuring soaring white-capped mountains and verdant emerald forests.
Once home to the seafaring Vikings, the area is now crowded with tourists every season, mostly arriving by cruise ship to witness the dramatic spectacle of the enchanting fjords against the backdrop of the ethereal midnight sun in the summer season.
In winter, the Norwegian fjords are an incredible sight, and the increased opportunity to experience the magical Northern Lights dancing across the sky regularly ushers in even more tourists.
Fortunately, the awe-inspiring Norwegian landscape and its pristine waters are being safeguarded by the government’s commitment to reducing cruise ship emissions.
Initially set for 2026, the ban on non-zero emission passenger vessels has been extended to 2032, ensuring the preservation of this iconic natural environment for future generations.
Additionally, cruise ships cause an influx of visitors on small fjord communities, such as Geiranger and Flåm, sparking debates and raising awareness of consequential issues. This led Bergen to stop tourist buses entering its historic city centre due to the number of people disembarking from large ships.
Furthermore, the resilient communities of the Indigenous Sámi people, whose generations of reindeer herders live in harmony with nature and the seasons, are being threatened by both a large amount of visitors and the effects of climate change.
However, vessels travelling through the archipelago break the ice and accelerate melting, resulting in their emissions settling on the ice and increased traffic that further disrupts local ecosystems. While climate change is the main contributor, the presence of cruise ships in the Arctic causes significant environmental damage.
Balancing Tourism and Preservation
Norway boasts the world’s second-longest coastline and its fjords are the country’s top tourist attraction, with the popular route of The West Norwegian Fjords becoming a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005. However, long-standing conflict between the economy and the environment has resurfaced.
The scenic vistas are not only a treat for tourists, but also delicate and vital ecosystems for marine life, providing a home for fish, seabirds, whales, and seals. Unfortunately, these habitats are at risk of destruction due to the cruise industry, which contributes three percent of the country’s greenhouse gas emissions.
In order to make sustainability profitable, it is essential to adapt rather than completely stop activities. It is worth noting that many large passenger vessels utilise heavy-fuel oils, which release sulphur oxides (SOx) and nitrogen oxides (NOx) into the atmosphere. Consequently, cruise ship operators have begun to make concessions for these emissions.
Another critical issue is the discharge of waste, including sewage, foodstuffs, and ballast water, which introduces harmful substances and invasive species into the fjords. Additionally, the noise generated by cruise ships also disrupts sea mammals, which rely on unbroken sound for communication and navigation.
To tackle these issues, Norwegian authorities are implementing some of the world’s strictest environmental standards for cruise ships, especially those sailing through the areas of the fjords that are designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
In a bid to reduce the tourism industry’s carbon footprint, new regulations state that only cruise ships powered by cleaner technologies, such as electric or hydro propulsion, are permitted to access environmentally sensitive areas. Moreover, restrictions are imposed on the dimensions and quantity of cruise ships allowed in specific fjords.
Delaying the measures by six years will allow for the development of new vessels for the affected cruise companies. However, the ruling will still apply to tourist ships and ferries under 10,000 tonnes from 1st January 2026.
Leading the Way in Sustainable Tourism
For instance, Hurtigruten, the original Norwegian cruise operator established in 1893, is widely recognised for its innovative approach towards the use of alternative fuel for its fleet. The leading adventure travel company has been championing a greener future in tourism for some time and significantly invested in cutting-edge technologies such as liquefied natural gas (LNG) and shore power connections.
Another prominent example is Ambassador Cruise Line, whose MS Ambience and MS Ambition ships are already showcasing its commitment to eco-friendly travel with advanced emission control systems that meet Norway’s NOx requirements.
The company’s smaller, more efficient vessels prioritise sustainability and environmental stewardship, making them ideal for navigating the fjords and significantly reducing harmful air pollutants compared to traditional cruise ships, positioning Ambassador Cruise Line as a pioneer amongst other companies permitted to sail through the area.
Princess Cruises, Scenic, Fred. Olsen Cruises, and Cunard, alongside P&O Cruises, Havila Voyages, and Atlas Ocean Voyages, also lead the way in reducing their environmental impact on Norwegian waters.
The focus on sustainability ensures that the cruise and tourism industries are constantly evolving. Although a complete ban is proposed for 2032, the transition to alternative energy for travelling around the fjords will begin before this date.
This shift allows tourists to experience Norway’s natural wonders while preserving its landscapes and minimising degradation.
In addition to reshaping the industry by pushing cruise lines to adopt greener technologies, the country is spearheading the future of cruising, thereby influencing other nations to follow suit.
Norway is making good progress in its efforts to build a sustainable destination. Not only has the government introduced a requirement for cruise ships to be zero emission, but the tourism authority has also worked with industry representatives to address the issue of mass tourism, which Instagrammers have exacerbated in recent years.
Setting out a sustainable framework for the next decade of tourism development, Visit Norway and various representatives created the tagline – “Big Impact, Small Footprint” – which will hopefully serve as a guiding principle for other global initiatives.
